Looking back on the whole thing it looks quite impressive. I took a lot of photos! The GW has been a theme throughout this most tricky and unique of years and I figured it would be nice to finish off with a bit of a ‘wash up’ post. So, here are three personal reflections, existential or otherwise, followed by my top tips for anyone wanting to do the same journey.
Reflections
“If I could not walk far and fast, I think I should just explode and perish” -Charles Dickens
Fair to say its been a tough year for everyone. I’ve been luckier than many with a steady job and a supportive family, but there have still been moments of stress and angst. Having the GW ‘project’ as a theme throughout the year has not only been a great distraction, but a chance to get away to a sense of normality. Nature and the wider landscape doesn’t give two hoots about Covid. The simple act of just putting one foot in front of the other, only vaguely aware of what might be round the next corner (only so much detail a map can give you) has provided a sense of purpose a long way from the everyday.
I don’t think its too pompous sounding to say that the following of a long distance footpath has been really eye opening in terms of understanding the landscape and seeing the place where I live in a whole new light. I’ve lived in either Kent or Surrey for most of my life but have never had the appreciation for the rurality and beauty of these counties before. There’s a timeless feel to it as well; in 1938 George Orwell wrote about this part of the world in terms of “railway cuttings smothered in wild flowers, deep meadows where great shining horses browse and meditate, slow-moving streams bordered by willows, green bosoms of the elms, [and] larkspurs in the cottage gardens”. Beyond the occasional distant roar of the M20 or A21, it doesn’t feel much different 82 years on.
I’m a hobbyist student of history but have always been most interested in social history. Thanks to the tireless researches of my uncle I know that I’m descended from a family of thatchers in rural Somerset; obviously my own life is galaxies away from the experiences, and expectations, of my great-great-Grandmother (the fabulously named Thurza) but walking these landscapes has given a glimpse into the working and personal lives of people like her. Pre-industrial landscapes and towns changed fundamentally by the coming of railways, traces of medieval cloth and charcoal trade, the brewing industry running through Kent like the letters in a stick of rock and the distant traces of men and boys marching off to a catastrophic war just 80 miles away. It’s all there to be seen in the churches and pubs, ancient farms and monuments, woodland and fields.
Top tips
“Everywhere is walking distance if you have the time” -Steven Wright
Plan, plan, plan. But not too much. Take the time to work out how far you want to go, what the transport options are. I used the excellent OS App to estimate distance I wanted to cover each time and how long it might take. This was pretty critical in the winter months as I didn’t fancy night walks over unfamiliar territory. The OS App is also handy to get an idea of rail options. The national rail app/website is useful for all train related info, but trains start to get more difficult in rural areas. However, I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the rural bus network. I used a national bus timetable site to work out timing, but generally local operators’ sites give you better detail on locations of stops. Having all this information to hand before starting takes the stress out and reduces reliance on having an internet connection. But don’t over plan it; on one occasion I found myself ‘rushing’ to catch a bus and regretted spending my time stressing about not meeting ‘the plan’ rather than enjoying the surroundings.
Expect it to take longer than you think. On the flat I clock a decent 4 miles an hour. This will not be your speed over fields, footpaths and stiles. A chap from the Long Distance Walkers Association once told me that 3-miles-an-hour-plus-an-hour is good pace. A typical GW segment was about 14 miles; on that basis, 5.5 hours is not an unreasonable expectation.
Eat little and often or you won’t eat at all. This might be a personal thing, but walking a lot actually suppresses my appetite. I often brought home half sandwiches from not-especially-big lunches. In the end I started taking lots of nibbly bits that I would pick at the whole stage. Obviously in a Covid world any options for eating in a pub were out for most of the year, but in any case the GW is very rural so at no point did I assume pubs and shops on the way.
Kit; keep it light. Unless you’re camping and need to carry your tent, all you need is fluid, a map, the all important battery pack for phone charging, and maybe a small kit with sun-cream/plasters. And snacks. Obviously seasonal gear as appropriate, although try to make it so you don’t end up carrying lots of stuff ‘just in case’. On the winter stages I wore a thermal base layer, a long sleeved t-shirt and a jumper, with a waterproof coat. Only ever needed to carry the (lightweight) waterproof. I generally eschewed gaiter. HOWEVER, I have to say that about half way through this adventure I did start to carry a change of socks, not really for the walk, but to give me ‘fresh feet’ for the journey home. Also, particularly handy when the ground started to get muddy, a walking pole. Helpful for slippery stiles and judging how deep the mud goes! My backpack had a ‘slot’ for walking poles so I didn’t have to carry it separately.
Anyway, enough of this aimless meandering. I’m taking a bit of a break from long distance walks for a bit, well at least until 2021.
What next.....?
2021 is a ‘big birthday’ year for me and in honour of this I thought I’d attempt something chunky; a friend of mine made me aware of the ‘Old Way’ a 250 mile old pilgrimage route from Southampton (where I met and married my man and had my children) to Canterbury (near where I grew up and scene of teenage shenanigans). Seems like a good idea right? It took me a year to cover 110 miles of the GW in 9 stages. What’s the betting I can do more than double that in the same time period?? We’ll see.
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