Ah, the sweet smell of autumn! Combine that with a cheeky Friday off and we're back on the trail again. Less of a trek this time, just a morning jaunt from Faversham to Whitstable before having lunch with an old friend. But it all counts, even if it's just a 16km (c. 10 miles) stroll!
Emerging from Faversham station I headed down through the pretty town centre, past the brewery and towards Standard Quay, the former beating heart for Faversham as a port town, and still a centre of antiques, art, culture and bargains. I have a spanking pair of silver gilt octopus bookends on my shelves following a trip to Standard Quay- recommended. Of course it is also home to barges, tall ships and the old customs house, and is adjacent to a working boat yard. Its an amazing spot to stop and admire the view along Faversham Creek. But as I had fish and chips promised 10 miles hence, I pushed on....
Passing through Standard Quay and the boat yard (pausing to let a crane lower a boat into the water) the path reaches the edge of Nagden Marshes. At this point lies a small footbridge, crossing a creeklet before opening up to the wide skies and scrubland. Like a sentinel standing guard next to the bridge is Quint's Place, a final bastion of coffee fuelled civilisation, offering sustenance to the weary traveller (and the boat men of Faversham) from a small shack surrounded by eclectic and riotously loud furniture and furnishings. Quint being my very favourite Jaws character ("farewell and adieu to you fair Spanish ladies...") it would have been, frankly, disrespectful not to stop for an earl grey before plunging out towards the bleak expanse of Nagden and Graveney marshes.
The SSW hugs Faversham Creek all the way down to where it meets the Swale and tracks the shoreline heading westwards before turning back east towards Seasalter and Whistable, past Nagden and then Graveney Marshes. Graveney Marshes was the site of the last ground level battle fought on British soil. It was fought in September 1940 and the participants were the crew of Junkers Ju88 twin-engine bomber that had been forced to crashland, and members of the London Irish Rifles who had been billeted in Seasalter. No fatalities, one flesh wound. The tail end of the Isle of Sheppey is still visible to the left, a sight similar to that seen before turning inland towards Faversham on day 3. But within a couple of kilometers, Sheppey is behind us and we're finally looking out to the north sea. Almost 100km in, finally next to the sea!
It was a wonderful day to walk this stretch, blustery and autumnal, the waves lapping at the sea wall and tiny boats tacking just off shore. Some kite surfers were having the best time, speeding towards the shore before being lifted clear from the water by the wind and then unceremoniously dumped back down into the sea. This section of the path between Graveney Marshes and Seasalter traverses of South Swale nature reserve, home to myriad bird, shellfish, plant and insect life. A cloud of goldfinches startled from a hedgerow on my approach and, as with the rest of this path so far, the bleaker aspect of the area's appearance gives the lie to a region teeming with sounds and sights of life.
I followed the landward side of the seawall before coming into Seasalter next to the Sportsman Pub (I didn't stop there) and then continued to follow the path which eventually crosses the road to avoid peering into the homes and gardens of the good people of Seasalter. From here, it's a short 3-4km to Whitstable, passing holiday homes, marinas and ultimately a row of (apparently very expensive) beach huts into the town's sea front proper. Whitstable is a charming little place and I was fortunate to meet my friend for lunch at the town's 'beachside' pub, the Old Neptune, for fish and chips before repairing to the South Quay shed for a cuppa (and spot of retail therapy- recommend the Whitstable Harbour Gin!).
All round a thoroughly lovely walk, not too strenuous (except when the wind blew really hard) and taking in all the man-made and natural pleasures seaside life has to offer! It's a shame to note that the Cleve Hill Solar Park development at Graveney Marsh may well threaten this pleasure. I wonder what the landscape will look like next time I visit.
The map for the day (although you don't really need one!).
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