Well, it was pretty much inevitable I'd find something to fill the rest of 2022 right? And the long training walks ahead of Race to the Stones in July meant that I could kick off the long held desire to cover the Vanguard Way with a monster section AND get some training in at the same time. Almost rude not to.
A bit of background. The Vanguard Way is a 107km (66 miles) route from East Croydon train station to Newhaven. Created in the 1960's by a, by all accounts, rambunctious and hard drinking London based rambling club, the 'suburbs to sea' route really does appear to have it all. Being on my doorstep and intersecting with both the Greensand and Eden Valley Way, I've seen its waymarking in many places and have been curious where this path might lead. It would also finally give me an answer to the oft repeated statement muttered at East Croydon station "it would be quicker to bloody walk home".
So with two of my Race to the Stones teammates (let's call them Marv and Danger) I sallied forth on an early train to ECR (as the national rail app would have it) to kick off the first 36km (22.4 miles) of the VGW, as part of a 42km training walk.
It really does start from the station, crossing over the tramline and heading down towards the law courts before taking the lane to the left at the entrance to Park Hill Park. The path is incredibly well waymarked, and despite having the equivalent of a space shuttle's worth of technology and GPS power between us, there was almost no need for it (although Marv's small R2D2 astromech droid (OK, it was a watch) did warn us of impending climbs!).
Most striking for our first 10km of the Vanguard Way was that we hardly saw a soul and spent most of our time on shady forested path; hardly the mark of Croydon environs. As we steadily climbed up the lower reaches of the North Downs we were able to look back and see the London city skyline, on a day so clear the arch of Wembley was visible on the horizon.
Most of the climb up and over the Downs was fairly gentle but we did find a couple of tougher climbs and, for me anyway, tricky descents. Thank goodness for sticks!
At the beginning of that second descent (after the peak of our ascent at 262m) we had an amazing view over the M25 and over into Surrey and onwards to the South Downs from the point of view of a place of special scientific interest. Glorious nature and also some protected species, including the Roman snail (which apparently is the species that is also good to eat, but woe betide you if you try it in the UK!) and a wide range of orchids.
Descending down to the M25, we tracked alongside it for a while through hayfeverish grasslands and meadows before emerging onto a sun-baked, fallow field. Tracing the edge of the field (before encountering the first of our horribly overgrown bramble and nettle infested battles!) we realised we were about to cross the Greenwich Meridian. Always nice to find global measurements in fallow fields next to a motorway. A feverish attempt across three devices to pinpoint the exact spot proved pointless when we found handy signage. Those efficient Vangard Ramblers again. Obligatory 'leaps' from Western to Eastern hemispheres ensued.
Crossing the M25 by way of a footbridge we traced the edge of Titsey Wood before stopping for lunch at about our half-way point and then continuing into Limpsfield. Picturesque as ever and today with a cricket game going on you couldn't get more quintessentially English. It's at Limpsfield that the VGW intersects with the GSW; my feet had walked here before!
Of course such rural idyll comes with occasional hazards, in this case a field of curious cows of the Titsey Herd (apparently pedigree Sussex cattle!) ahead of us, with a field of noisy ones behind us. Discretion being the better part of valour, we retreated back behind a stile, and whilst Danger and I looked on, Marv herocially 'shooed' them away. Following a little more drama where it looked like the buggers might encircle poor Marv, we did succesfully traverse the pasture of (potential) doom.
Phew! After all that excitement, we needed a bit of respite and the sunny path ahead did not disappoint. The feel of the working landscape of the Surrey/Kent border was very much in evidence as we passed through farmland and past ancient farm buildings and chocolate box cottages. Following tributaries of the River Eden towards our penultimate climb of the day (according to R2D2) at Dry Hill Fort, there's a hidden history in the earthworks and barrows in the area.
At Beeches Farm, just after Dry Hill we deviated from the VGW to pick up the route of the Four Counties walk, looping around to complete our training distance before a welcome refresher at the Plough Inn.
All round, a thoroughly satisfying start to the VGW with excellent company. I like to think that even Danger, firmly of the conviction that interesting walks only start west of the M3 (jk), was pleasantly suprised at the variety and beauty of the scenery. Even I was shocked just how green and isolated things felt inside the M25!
For anyone looking to undertake the VGW, it's worth noting that this is much more akin to the Greensand Way than the Old Way in terms of finding supplies. This is a primarily rural trail so make sure you have enough of everything before you set out.
Here is the map of our whole route; the final 6km of which is NOT on the VGW.
I'll finish up the VGW once Race to the Stones is done (with perhaps a bit of a break inbetween!), probably over 2-3 days. The rest of the route promises more stunning countryside, perhaps another visit to Alfriston, the wonder of Cuckmere Haven and the emotional ups and downs of the Seven Sisters. Looking forward to it.
Comments