What with one thing and another, its been rather a long time since day 1 of the Vanguard Way and my initial plans to complete it in 2022 were put on hold. But, faced with another bank holiday, a desire to make some progress on at least one of my walking projects, but lacking the time to commit to initial embarkation on the Saxon Shore Way, I figured day 2 of the Vanguard was long overdue.
My initial plan for Day 2 had been a 30+ km jaunt all the way down to Buxted but the weather wasn't looking too hot, so I put in a break clause at around 23km, near a pub. Always a good plan.
So on the morning of Charlie's* Coronation the good-web-developer-him-indoors dropped me off at The Plough at Dormandsland (where Marv, Danger and myself finished our bit of the Vanguard Way last year) and I walked the 4km to get to the VGW proper and headed south.
This section was broadly split into 2, the first 12km to Forest Row, and the latter half of either 11km to the Crow and Gate pub near Crowborough, or 19km to Buxted station. The weather was OK, a little light drizzle but it was warm and the country very lovely. The air was redolent with the scent of wild garlic and everything was green, green, green.
My first 12km took me over farmland and along quiet country lanes, skirting the border of Kent and Surrey before crossing over into East Sussex at the ancient pile of Gotwick Manor (not a typo). Peaceful woodland, with a few patches of mud, and beautiful carpets of bluebells, with gentle undulations in the landscape. So far, so bucolic.
It really is a very peaceful path, I saw maybe 2 dog walkers and couple horse riders, and not a soul otherwise. Its gets little busier as you approach Forest Row and I noticed a wide range of local circular walks waymarked. As you cross the old railway line, now the line of Forest Way/Sussex Border Path/High Weald Landscape Trail (that footpath is doing a lot of heavy lifting!) however, you're abruptly on concrete, passing through an industrial estate outlying Forest Row, before emerging next to the Coop (handy) on the main road through the village.
I stopped here for a bit of early lunch and to watch Justin** pop a crown on Charlie's bonce, and admired the vim and enthusiasm of a hoard of teenagers preparing to set off on their DofE excustion, or some other hiking activity. Maps were shoved into waterproof carriers, gaiters strapped onto boots as the misty rain got a little heavier. I watched from a sheltered bench as little groups of 3-4 teens set off, enthusiasm undimmed, into adventure. None of us knew what awaited us.
Forest Row is on the edge of Ashdown Forest, a 10-square mile expanse of lowland health and woodland that is probably most famous for inspiring the stories of Winnie the Pooh and Christopher Robin. It is indeed a gorgeous setting and I followed tiny paths, walked up huge firebreaks and latterly traversed vast open hillsides of heathland. Leaving Forest Row, I first skirted the golf course before heading uphill towards Shepherd's Gate. This was mainly woodland and I was sheltered from the ever heavier rain and strengthening wind. This was the only part of the walk so far where the waymarking failed me and I got turned around bit in the woods, emerging onto a minor road to wonder which direction I should head in. Thanks to the trusty OS App I got back on track and emerged near Newbridge to see some of that open heath, covered in yellow gorse and stark clumps of trees silhouetted against an ever darkening sky.
The climb up to Gils Lap, roughly following Kidds Hill Road, was against the wind and a genuinely tough ask, especially the final push up a steep hummock to the trig point. It was about 160m climb over 500m in driving wind and rain on open ground and I was relieved to find a tree under which to shelter at the top. I wasn't alone; I shared my damp view with a cluster of the aforementioned, but now less exuberant, soggy teenagers.
The view from that trig pint was spectacular, even in the wind and rain; one day I might even go back to see it in the sunshine! Sense of achievement, and actually still OK, because my still-quite-new Scarpa boots had kept my feet comfortable and dry. That was not to last.
Passing across the moorland landscape atop Camp Hill, the VGW then passes the Kings Standing Clump before heading downhill, down a rutted path. At this point, these ruts ahd filled with water, forming rivulets, then streams and eventually torrents of water cascading downhill. My last 2km down this hill were characterised by squelchy boots, the Scarpas giving in to the inevitable, and judicious use of walking poles to avoid being swept down the gullies. Needless to say, I took the 'break clause' option when I finally met the Crowborough Road and turned left toward the welcome sight of the Crow and Gate. I was met with a warm welcome, immediately furnished with a pint, and invited to take a seat at the table closest to the roaring open fire, where I was allowed to dry my sopping clothes out whilst waiting for the good-web-developer-him-indoors to come pick me up. With a change of shoes.
I felt slightly aggreived looking back on the day, at missing out on some of the splendid, scenery on offer, too concerned at various stages on just getting somewhere dry. But I did feel a sense of achievement at combatting the elements, and at the very least proving my constitution more robust than that of a typical Austen heroine. Which is to say, very.
Overall, the VGW continues to deliver on its promise of a novel and varied way to get from London to the Sea. I think I will finish it off over 2-3 days, depending on how adventurous I feel. And depending on whether I ever start the Saxon Shore Way!
Here's the map:
* Charles III, by the Grace of God, of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland and of Her other Realms and Territories King, Head of the Commonwealth, Defender of the Faith
**The Most Reverend Justin Welby, by Divine Providence Lord Archbishop of Canterbury, Primate of All England and Metropolitan
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