Lockdown walking 3.0: North Wessex Downs

As the roadmap out of lockdown grinds onwards, the words ‘the stay at home rule will end on March 29th’ caught my eye. I am eternally grateful to live in a place with the countryside on my doorstep, but must confess to have gotten a case of itchy feet! So I hopped in the car and headed off to the glorious area of outstanding natural beauty that is the North Wessex Downs. Stretching across Hampshire, Berkshire, Oxfordshire and Wiltshire, the area is straight out of Danny the Champion of the World. Pheasants everywhere, chocolate box cottages, medieval churches, manorial estates and some of the best views to be had in the South of England.

I parked up at Ashmansworth, a tiny village about 7 miles south of Newbury. It has a single main road (Bartletts Down Lane) with parking available either side, but be aware of driveways and access. From the bus stop on the main road I headed north up Bartletts Down Lane and picked up the byway, turning left and heading uphill. This section was a muddy experience, following the hedgeline and then into woodland before emerging onto a small lane; this is part of the Wayfarers Walk , a 71 mile path that links the Solent to the high ridge we’re about to explore. We’ll stick with the Wayfarer’s Walk for a while yet, crossing the lane and continuing uphill (mostly gently!) following the obvious path. The going underfoot varies from gravel to quagmire!

The WW eventually meets up with a road that you follow up to the ‘Warlbury Hill Car Park’ (which was chock full of twitchers when I walked past). From here there is a chalk gravel path that leads up to the top of the ridge, marked rather gruesomely by Combe Gibbet (originally erected in 1676 to display the bodies of an adulterous couple who murdered one of their spouses). Built on a long barrow, this is an ancient and very beautiful place, defined by the landscape and its use over the centuries as a drove-way for shepherds and others taking livestock to grazing grounds.

Combe Gibbet

The Wayfarers Walk at this point is also part of the Test Way, the long distance path that runs north to south, starting here in the chalk downs, following the River Test all the way down the estuary near Totton (on the west side of Southampton). We’re going to stick to the Test Way for a while, turning left off the Wayfarer’s Walk and heading southeast through fields, passing woodland on the left and heading down the steep, and wonderfully named Sheepless Hill. You may be tempted to look at the slope ahead with with a sinking heart, but worry not, the Test Way takes a left at the confluence of footpaths at the base of the hill. The path passes through a short bit of scrubland and then into managed woodland that is Combe Wood. Careful here, lots of logging activity was going on!

Exiting the woodland, follow the byway straight ahead, curving through the valley until you reach a small collection of huts and other buildings that I think are part of a camping/outdoor adventure company. Don’t go past these, the path heads off to the right and zig zags up a steep hill, crossing a stile, passing some envy enducing Georgian villas and emerging ultimately onto a road that, once you turn left onto it proper, passes through the tiny village of Linkenholt. Home to just 40 people it forms part of the Manor of Linkenholt, with a history dating from before the Domesday Book. It is home to the very charming little church of St Peter’s, which has pretty arched windows, beaded with round, sea urchin fossils from the ancient sea beds that ultimately formed the foundations of the landscape we’ve been walking across. Take a moment to walk around it and reflect on the myriad of joyous beginnings, grieved endings and happy matchings that have marked the passing of time in this tiny hamlet.

St Peter’s Church

Keep heading along the ’main’ road with St Peter’s on your left and then take a right, passing along the lane and picking up a footpath on your left just before the farm buildings of Manor Farm. Follow the obvious path down the farm track and then hug the field boundary to your left before hopping over a stile in the fence line. This footpath takes you down towards the hamlet of Netherton, a site where formerly stood an Anglo-Saxon manorial complex. Nothing left to see, at least above ground, but there are some stately looking houses and some remarkable barn conversions (and roofs) to gaze at if architecture is your thing. You’ll emerge from among the buildings onto a lane; turn right and then left to join the road that runs into Faccombe. A little after entering the village, there is a byway that turns right, and takes you away from the road (much more preferable!). Follow this straight on and then take a left right angled turn to keep following the byway until you cross a road and head straight down another track known locally as ‘London Lane’, surrounded by woodland. This, and the previous byway, form part of Brenda Parker Way, 78 miles of footpath running between Aldershot and Andover. Brenda Parker was a local Ramblers volunteer and advocate, memorialised through this footpath in 2011. ‘London Lane’ emerges onto another country lane, which then runs straight into Ashmansworth and our starting point.

This was a stunning walk and a real treat to get out after so long kicking around on a piece of ground in your hometown (points for people getting the Pink Floyd reference). So many options as well, there’s literally hundreds of ways to strike out and discover new vistas inthese parts. Very rural, so not much in the way of country pubs (not that that makes much of a difference right now); a picnic was a must, but spoiled for choice on where to stop and eat it!

Overall this route covered 22km (13.7 miles) over varied ground; nothing too taxing but not suitable for anyone with mobility issues. Length notwithstanding, I think enthusiastic children would have no problem getting round, but not with scooters ;). Maybe mountain bikes if they are so inclined!

Here’s the map, which should be viewable on Google maps and all good browsers if you want to follow along.

And finally, following the sad demise of the original, I’m pleased to introduce a new cat-mascot; Captain Cat Sparrow. Pirate cat. See what we did there......