Back in November the good-web-developer-him-indoors and I boarded the 2115hrs train to Fort William (this is like the midnight train to Georgia but with bunk beds and breakfast in the morning. And not to Georgia. Or at midnight.) in the Scottish Highlands. We had a lovely weekend away, strolling about and sampling local brews and burgers in remote pubs. Throughout our brief sojurn I saw a myriad of tempting paths and distance walking opportunities that, whilst not in keeping with 'eat, drink and be merry' tenor of our excursion, tempted me into a return visit in April, this time with my estimable mother in tow.
We once again got the sleeper train out of Euston and enjoyed a late dinner and bottle of bubbly before retiring to comfy bunk beds, awaking to a very different landscape to that which we had departed in London. Rolling mountains, tranquil lochs, stags bounding away from the train as it trundled, lonely over the benighted moorland. Enough to bring out the poet in anyone. Seriously, this is the way to travel; nothing like hot tea and a salmon frittata as you travel to the top of the UK in as stress free a manner as I think is possible. And there's no doubt, the whole experience is slightly redolent of a movie; I doubt anyone would have been really suprised to have been woken by a piercing scream in the night to find one of the first class passengers having been bumped off and their rubies stolen. Or on seeing some suave spy-type chucking a sinister looking Spectre agent out of the fire escape window.
On arrival in Fort William we were met by the very charming James who collected our luggage for transfer to the B&B at Spean Bridge. We popped off in his car. We were walking there, mostly following the Great Glen Way.
The Great Glen Way is a 127 km (79 miles) trail from Fort William to Inverness that broadly follows the line of the geological fault line that runs south east to north west across Scotland, and caused the formation of some of its best known loch (like Loch Ness and the brilliantly named Loch Lochy. It’s akin to calling something Lakey McLakerson). It differs from some of the other famous trails in Scotland insofar as its pretty low lying. Ma and I were walking the first section, from Fort William to Gairlochy.
Fort William is overlooked by the mighty Ben Nevis, which was conspicuously shrouded in fog when we arrived. We had plenty of time to admire its snow drifted peaks though as the weather cleared up and we headed north east towards the first landmark, Neptune’s Stair Case.
To get there we wended our way along the shores of Loch Linnhe, through Inverlochy, taking in the 13th centurey ruins of Inverlochy castle, which stood through two nearby battles. It’s closed to the public but its not hard to to get a feel for these romantic ruins as a site of strife and peace for pushing 1,000 years. Onwards we marched, following the river for a while before cutting through residential suburbs (with a strategic stop for a lunchtime beer) and up to Neptune’s Stair Case.
Neptune’s Stair Case is the beginning of the Caledonian Canal, which runs 60 miles through the Great Glen. The ‘stair case’ raises the canal up 19 metres through a series of 8 locks, the longest run in the country. Is quite the feat of engineering, it took almost 20 years to complete in the early 19th century. Walking to the top of the flight you get an amazing view looking down towards sea level. Naturally though, I took this photo from the bottom.
We followed the canal path for some 10km, passing along wild rivers, farmland, highland hills leading up to forests and snowy peaks. We came across a number of bridges that were there to facilitate the moving of livestock across the canal, because when it was built it split some farms into two. Throughout our walk the weather lived up to its ‘four seasons in one day’ reputation; we had bright sunshine, showers and rainbows in rapid succession, but on the whole it remained dry and we were the happier for it.
Gave rise to some pretty decent photos as well.
Gairlochy itself wasn’t especially prepossessing. A swing bridge for cars to pass over, a phone box and that was about it. Oh, and a bench, upon which we rested and wondered whether we should ring for a lift at this point or trek the next 7km over the hill to Spean Bridge. Being hardy and resilient types, we opted for the latter and left the Great Glen Way to head east towards our evening’s repast and comfy bed.
This last leg was more or less road walking, up and over the hill, heading down into Spean Bridge. The views of the Nevis Range were breathtaking and we also passed the monument to the Commandos who alighted at Spean Bridge station prior to their route march to their training base at Achnacarry Castle nearby. Quite the place to train in! I imagine they did a few more hills than us. We’d stuck to the road for ease, and was glad we had done so as the footpath alternatives looked extremely precipitous!
Altogether, Mum and I walked around 25km, about 18km of which was on the Great Glen Way. The next major town is Fort Augustus, another 40km on from Gairlochy; it’s fair to say that accommodation is sparse along the route itself. Spean Bridge was the closest we could get, although there were some smaller, remote cottages available that might do well for a longer stay.
We stayed in the staggeringly beautiful Tirindish House B&B which comes highly recommended, and had a lovely and extremely filling dinner at the Old Station House. The next morning we took the bus back into Fort William and lurked around the place until it was time to get the train back.
I will definitely head north again to do some more days of the Great Glen Way. Arguably not as famous as the West Highland Way but I think it has lots to offer, not forgetting of course the opportunity for a chilly swim in the Lochs!
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