Shoreham circular: unexpected Sussex gems

Some of my favourite, most memorable walks are the ones I plan for the least. You know the sort of thing, random day off, weather looks decent and so forth. I'd actually been looking for a sea swim opportunity, preferably with an hours train ride, and had lighted upon Shoreham-by-Sea. The tides however were not in my favour and I needed to wait a few hours, just to be on the safe side. So, firing up the trusty OS App, I found a circular route which looked to take about 3 hours (15km, 9 miles) and would take in some of the Downs and a good chunk of riverside walking.

If you’re looking for a walk that combines big skies, historic landmarks, and the serene beauty of Sussex’s downland landscape, then this Shoreham Circular is a absolute gem. I tackled it clockwise, starting from the train station, heading west along the river estuary then up into the Downs before looping back along the River Adur. It offered the perfect blend of views, heritage, and tranquil isolation (exactly what I was after!).

Starting at Shoreham-by-Sea train station, the route passes St Mary de Haura, a striking Norman church right in the centre. Built in the 12th century when Shoreham was a major port, it still dominates the town with its soaring stonework. Heading south and over the swing bridge I picked up the footpath that follows the estuary heading West, passing a wide range of interesting and eclectic houseboats; these included a floating home shaped like a fish and a converted former 1960s German minesweeper.

Heading out of town, and over the A27 (which requires a little detour to do safely!) the path rises gradually onto the South Downs, passing the Lancing College estate on the righ. The climb is steady rather than steep on gravel tracks, and the reward is wide views over the Adur valley, the hum of insects in the hedgerows, and the white flecks of sheep dotting the hillsides. It’s quiet, peaceful, and filled with that special brand of stillness you always seem to find on the chalk ways of the downs.

Following narrow tracks over arable and grassland I soon reached the high point of the walk near Lancing Hill, where there is a proper panorama. As it was by now a beautiful clear day I could see the coastline sweep far away to the east and could just see the towering spire of Lancing College Chapel, rising like something out of a fantasy novel below.

Just a sample of the wall paintings at Coombe Church

From here, the route begins to descend. The landscape softens, fewer dramatic vistas, more sheep. Before meeting the river proper you pass two beautiful old churches , Coombes and Botolphs, each simple from the outside, but both rich with history, in that way that only 1,000 year-old tiny community churches can be. Coombes in particular is a hidden treasure, with rare medieval wall paintings that are nearly as old as the church itself.

The return leg along the River Adur, following Cycle Route 223, is a gentle and scenic contrast to the open heights of the Downs. I joined the river near Botolphs and opted to cross over the river at this point to follow the path down the eastern bank. There is a path on the western bank too but I be afeared of the cows grazing that side! The path becomes wide, level, perfect for easing tired legs after the long climb earlier. The river winds lazily southward, its broad tidal waters rich in wildlife; swans glide across the surface, herons stalk the shallows, and at this time of year damselflies and draginflies flit above the reeds. The landscape opens up here, offering sweeping views across the floodplain to the chalky ridges I'd just descended.

Swans on the Adur

Cycle Route 223 itself is well-maintained and easy to follow, doubling as both a footpath and cycle route, though rarely busy. The surface is mostly firm gravel or grassy track, making easy walking. The path can be followed all the way into central Shoreham, turning left just after the railway bridge to complete the loop.

This walk hit all the right notes for me; decent length, varied terrain, beautiful views, plenty of water to look out over and a bit of local history along the way. I did also manage a quick dip after a hearty lunch in town, now the tide was out a bit. All round, an excellent way to spend a Monday. I will be back for more exploring very soon!

Here's the map, just for reference. If you have the OS App, you can find this walk as 'shoreham circular 3' from Shoreham-by-Sea station.